Snowflakes (+ a thread give away)

This has been a busy time for me in the past few weeks, and I'm glad to say that while my spring cleaning isn't completed yet, I did have time to tat!

I recently bought this book at a semi-local used book store (who could special order books with ISBNs), and thought I'd share a few of the results.
Here's everything that I'm sharing today. All of the snowflakes that I have done so far require a center ring that is tied and cut and then a second round following. I didn't follow this step since I'm working on my split rings and have made the start of the second round by climbing out. I think they've turned out lovely!

These were both tatted in size 20 Lizbeth thread in the color "Victorian Red". I love this color; it's deep and has a bit of a purple-ly sheen to it. The top flake is the "Ribbon-Floss Snowflake" and the bottom one is the "Tiny Snowflake".

Went to Michael's a few days ago, wanting to get some DMC thread in Ecru, but they were out. So, I came home with some more Royal crochet thread, this time in "Bridal Blue". The size is a size 10, but tats up bigger than the other size 10s that I have used in the past. These snowflakes are "Trefoil" and "Ribbon-Floss" again. The next one I'm having problems with..

This one is the "Flower Snowflake" and it isn't wanting to lie flat. It's only rings/chains, nothing fancy, but I'm not sure how this is turning out. The pattern uses only one shuttle and the ball thread, but it calls for size 20, and this is 10. Maybe that's why the flake isn't flat. I'll have to re-tat with smaller thread..

I've also tatted the star pattern out of this book, but have put them away before I could take any pictures. They were the last items I tatted before starting to clean, and there's no telling where they ended up.

I've also got about half of the thread that I've skeined dyed and rinsed! These are the early results:

DMC Size 10 Baroque

Aunt Lydia Size 10

Lizbeth Size 20

The Lizbeth thread held the colors the best, but I'm not 100% on the results. On the one I call "Orchid Blossom," some purple ended up in the middle of the white section, causing a bit of a blemish.

I'm offering these up for anyone who may want them, free of charge. They're all 50 yard skeins (plus a bit more, due to the way that I wound them). If anyone wants, comment here.

Tea Set and HDT

This is, by far, my favorite tea set. I bought it not long after I graduated from high school, and have had it packed away ever since. Not long after this picture was taken, I broke one of the handles off of a cup. Luckily, I can fix it with some super glue, but I'm still slightly upset about it.


As far as I can tell, it was made pre-WWII, but after WWI. I have found a few sites about this type of pottery as well as the company, but can't find the pattern.


It's beautiful, and this is the reason that I bought the set:


You may need to click on the picture to see all the detail, but it is a gorgeous silhouette of a geisha. You can see the petals in her hair as well as her graceful facial features. Also, you can't see this from the other side, only from looking above.

I've also been getting ready to dye some more thread. I'm thnking about hosting a give-away, mainly because I have so many that I have made and that I'm wanting to sell them. More details later as I decide what I'm going to do.

Until then, I'll leave you with these pictures. No tatting today (even though it is Tatting Tea Tuesday. Thinking about joining in on that as well!), but I have been working on some things since I've gotten closer to getting everything clean.

Knitted Fishnet Pattern

This pattern was NOT created by me. I first saw it on the TV show Knitty Gritty, which has since gone off the air (as far as I know), for an 80's day, and is a very simple pattern. It's reversible, so there is no front side/back side!

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get the pictures for the tutorial last night. Sorry!


Abbreviations:
CO (cast-on)
R (row)
YO (yarn over)
K# (knit the number of stitches)
K2tog (knit two stitches together)

CO any ODD number of stitches.
R: K1, YO, K2tog (YO, K2tog) to end of row, ending with K2tog.

Repeat R to desired length.

This pattern was used to create a pull-over shirt that was really loose fitting.

It's snowing here, so it's time for an emergency trip to the grocery store for bread and milk. More later!

Knitting

Hi all! I've been knitting a lot recently, so I don't have that much tatting to show. All my tatting supplies have been packed away while I try to get my spring cleaning done early!

All my pictures for what I have been working on are currently on my computer at home, so I'll try to post them when I get done here at school. For now, I'm posting these patterns for myself so I can remember them (since I seem to forget where I put my doodle book!). Both are scarves, and one is a cable scarf.

Later on tonight, I will be posting a really easy pattern for a fishnet lace stitch, possibly with a picture tutorial. It's all depending on if I can get my roommate to take the pictures as I knit!

Also, for those who are knitters, let me know if these are easy to follow? This is the first time I've tried to write out knitted patterns..

Bamboo Scarf
Odd rows are right-side.

Abbreviations:
R# (row number)
K# (knit the stitch)
YO (yarn-over)
K2tog (knit 2 together)

R1: CO any odd amt of stitches.
R2: Knit across.
R3 (eyelet row): K1, *YO, K2tog (repeat from * across)
R4: Purl across
R5: Knit across
R6: Purl across.

*begin repeat pattern
R1-4: Knit all rows.
R5: Knit across
R6: Purl across
R7: Knit across
R8: Purl across
R9: Knit across
R10: Purl across

Repeat from * to desired length, then
R1-4: Knit across
R5: Knit across
R6: Purl across
R7 (eyelet row): K1. *YO, K2tog (repeat from * to end of row)
R8: Knit
R9: Bind-off

**The eyelets in this scarf are meant for creating a tasseled fringe. If you don't like having fringes on your scarvs, omit the ends and substitute with 4 rows of knitted stitches.


Cabled Scarf
**The moss stitch that I use in this is different from what I've found online. Instead of being four rows repeated, it's only two.
**Even sides are right side.

Abbreviations:
R# (row number)
K# (knit the stitch count)
P# (purl the stitch count)
MS (moss stitch of K1, P1)
Cbl (cable)
st (stitch)
sl (slip stitch to cable needle)
cbl ndl (cable needle)

R1: CO 37 stitches
R2: MS (k1, p1 to end of row)
R3: MS (k1, p1 to end of row)
R4: MS (k1, p1 to end of row)
R5: MS (k1, p1 to end of row)

*R6: MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1), P2, K4, P3, K9, P3, K4, P2, MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1)
R7: MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1), K2, P4, K3, P9, K3, P4, K2, MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1)

Repeat from * for a total of six rows, then
R12: MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1), P2, Cbl (sl 2 st to cbl ndl hold to front, K2, K2 from cbl ndl), P3, Cbl (sl 3 st to cbl ndl hold to front, K3, K3 from cbl ndl), K3, P3, Cbl (sl 2 st to cbl ndl hold to back, K2, K2 from cbl ndl), P2, MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1)

*R13: MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1), K2, P4, K3, P9, K3, P4, K2, MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1)
R14: MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1), P2, K4, P3, K9, P3, K4, P2, MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1)

Repeat from * for a total of six rows, then
R18: MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1), P2, Cbl (sl 2 st to cbl ndl hold to front, K2, K2 from cbl ndl), P3, Cbl (sl 3 st to cbl ndl hold to front, K3, K3 from cbl ndl), K3, P3, Cbl (sl 2 st to cbl ndl hold to back, K2, K2 from cbl ndl), P2, MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1)

Repeat from R7 to 18 for desired length, then

R1: MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1), K2, P4, K3, P9, K3, P4, K2, MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1)
R2: MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1), P2, K4, P3, K9, P3, K4, P2, MS (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1)
R3-6: MS (K1, P1 across)
R7: Bind-off

If you try out these patterns, let me know! I'd also like any feedback on how I've written them out..

As soon as I get the pictures up (and learn how to make knit diagrams), I'll change this post to make new posts for the patterns. o.O I confuse myself sometimes..

Until later, happy tatting (or in this case, knitting! ^^)